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 MOJO '78 Mako 25 (updated 5/13)
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Phin
Prolific Poster



12906 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2012 :  10:20:52 AM  Show Profile Send Phin a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Another coat in the bilge






Trimming front of console base











Grinding console base and splashwell

















A little sanding under the bow








Shooting putty into the gaps between bulkheads and hose conduits

















One last dry fit






Foam for under the cockpit fishboxes







Too much at once







Mistake learned from and port side done in small batches


















Trimming the overfill on the stbd side











Small batch to fill the gap and liner put in









Some methacrylate in the stringer-liner joints to tab them in place










Cutting the sonar and controls wiring chases flush and puttying them





















New shop mascot (only 2 inches long)







Putty








More putty








How to solve this problem












































Back corners also





















Dry fit









Glassing back side













Puttying around fuel conduit and opposite side










Cleaning up and puttying conduit area















Glassing











Methacrylating reinforcement plates under deck for T top bases










Dry fitting fuel tank











Methacrylate holding mounting pads








Clean up time










Ready for foam





Foaming













Fuel tank is now in














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Luke 8:22-25

Edited by - Phin on 08/28/2012 10:22:47 AM
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ssggb22
Junior Member



42 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2012 :  10:51:14 AM  Show Profile  Send ssggb22 an AOL message  Send ssggb22 a Yahoo! Message Send ssggb22 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I started reading your posts this past week and I have to say it has been very interested reading of were you started and were you at now (the pictures are awsome) on this MAJOR project. Your boat is going to be one mean fishing machine.. You are going to have to have a big launch ceremony (like when the Navy has when they launch a new ship).. I tell you what I would be there to see you launch it and I would have to say that most people who has been following this post would also be there... Thanks for sharing your project on here and I can't wait to see the finish product...

Army (RET)-(C/S-Charlie22)
2010 1860 Duracraft
60hp Mercury EFI
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pescazorro
Senior Member



421 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2012 :  10:59:30 AM  Show Profile Send pescazorro a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Maybe its an optical illussion but is the fuel inlet on the top of your tank not higher than where your fuel coduit comes out in the boat? Wont that make it difficult to fill? Perhaps gurgling?

"Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give.. Never Take."
EC
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Phin
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12906 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2012 :  11:22:51 AM  Show Profile Send Phin a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Zorro,
This issue actually took a whole lot of thought, and I went with the best possible setup I could make work. One option would have been to do separate conduits for the vent line and fill line. I decided against that because it would have actually made for even more difficulty to change out the fill hose in the future because it would be a smaller conduit to work with.

The single fuel lines conduit shown above is as high as it could go with drainage from front boxes staying as high as deck height as possible, i.e. not below the waterline. I would have liked it just a tad higher, but it isn't possible without having drainage from the fwd seating on the port side dip down below the waterline. (drain line is above the fuel conduit directly below the deck now) I wanted all my drains above the waterline except the console interior and bilge, so the fuel conduit had to go where it is. I couldn't figure out any different way to do it without going to a smaller I.D. conduit, and that would defeat the whole purpose of having a conduit IMO.

There won't be a fuel fill problem because the conduit has a slight downward, and backward, slope to it from under the gunnel to the stringer. The conduit is 3" I.D. so although the bottom of where it goes through the stringer is 1/2" lower than the top of the tank, the hose won't have that dip in it because the outboard end of the conduit is about 2" higher than where it goes through the stringer. To get the slope, the base of the outlet through the stringer had to go a little lower than the tank. I am planning on glassing inside the conduit a little to prevent buildup of anything. Probably not a big deal, but why not?





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Edited by - Phin on 08/28/2012 11:25:35 AM
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pescazorro
Senior Member



421 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2012 :  11:38:24 AM  Show Profile Send pescazorro a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Phin

Zorro,
This issue actually took a whole lot of thought, and I went with the best possible setup I could make work. One option would have been to do separate conduits for the vent line and fill line. I decided against that because it would have actually made for even more difficulty to change out the fill hose in the future because it would be a smaller conduit to work with.

The single fuel lines conduit shown above is as high as it could go with drainage from front boxes staying as high as deck height as possible, i.e. not below the waterline. I would have liked it just a tad higher, but it isn't possible without having drainage from the fwd seating on the port side dip down below the waterline. (drain line is above the fuel conduit directly below the deck now) I wanted all my drains above the waterline except the console interior and bilge, so the fuel conduit had to go where it is. I couldn't figure out any different way to do it without going to a smaller I.D. conduit, and that would defeat the whole purpose of having a conduit IMO.

There won't be a fuel fill problem because the conduit has a slight downward, and backward, slope to it from under the gunnel to the stringer. The conduit is 3" I.D. so although the bottom of where it goes through the stringer is 1/2" lower than the top of the tank, the hose won't have that dip in it because the outboard end of the conduit is about 2" higher than where it goes through the stringer. To get the slope, the base of the outlet through the stringer had to go a little lower than the tank. I am planning on glassing inside the conduit a little to prevent buildup of anything. Probably not a big deal, but why not?





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K. Looks great keep up the good work.

On a nother note, I am also curious to know if you think its been worth utilizing recycled box components. Seems like you may have just as much time in making those work as you would have in making them from scratch. I can see where it might be worth it if you could simply cut out and install the components intact with out having to butcher and rebuild. Just seems like an aweful lot of time trying to fit a square peg in a round hole. Not judging at all just curious if i find the time to take something like this on.

"Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give.. Never Take."
EC
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Phin
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12906 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2012 :  12:05:14 PM  Show Profile Send Phin a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Depends on the strength and quality of what you find from scrap boats. Could be a boat that's been on the bottom of a creek for a few months or could be a boat that was totalled by an insurance company after being wrecked. Difference in what you're pulling out of it is going to be a little significant then.

The parts I'm using out of other boats are extremely strong and would cost me a few hundred dollars just in materials to make myself.

Take the transom livewell for example. It would take me weeks to build a mold and fab it or to cold mold it, and it wouldn't turn out as clean or as strong.

The fish box floors saved me lots of resin, filler and work mostly because they were already smooth- that's the key with them. Getting the end product where it's smooth with no print through from the cloth pattern in the future is very time consuming. All the time I can save using the pre-made parts adds up to months of work even though it appears like a lot of work fitting them in to my boat.

I am at only 10 gallons of resin used so far on this project. With vinylester resin, when I get parts like those flat pieces I used for the fish box floors, that's probably a half gallon of resin saved as well as a few lbs of cloth. Add in milled glass fiber, cabosil and microspheres to fill and fair it smooth, and you're probably looking at maybe 30 or 40 bucks of materials per side.

I am not sure on my cloth usage yet, but I am not but about half way through the cloth I purchased up front. I am more than halfway through with my glassing already because below deck and the transom is where the most strength is needed. I am kind of working through the materials as I go with a section-by-section basis rather than trying to have an overall limitation or goal with everything used. It is a fine line between focusing too much on single areas and focusing too much on the overall project. You have to plan several steps ahead as you're doing stuff or else you're cutting things out and redoing them, which again is wastage of materials, time and money.

So I would say to look at the parts you can use and determine if they'll save you any of those things that may be more or less expensive or scarce for you personally.


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DoubleN
Senior Member



1376 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2012 :  4:27:21 PM  Show Profile Send DoubleN a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Really coming together Phin, looking awesome man!

06 200 Bay Scout 150 Yam

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Dragonslayer
Senior Member



813 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2012 :  7:54:22 PM  Show Profile Send Dragonslayer a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Ok...I am now TOTALLY CONVINCED that you are really some super hero in disguise....perhaps "Concentration Man" or perhaps "Attention to Detail Dude", or even "Anal Retentive Guy"

Honestly, I can't even imagine having the dedication to getting something like this done. Good on you Phin!!










"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf."
George Orwell
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Phin
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12906 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2012 :  8:47:46 PM  Show Profile Send Phin a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Thank you
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Cltdeerhunter
Senior Member



318 Posts

Posted - 08/28/2012 :  9:37:03 PM  Show Profile Send Cltdeerhunter a Private Message  Reply with Quote
More good stuff.

Cliff
2006 pioneer 197 SF 150 4s
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Cabdella77
Senior Member



273 Posts

Posted - 08/30/2012 :  09:00:12 AM  Show Profile Send Cabdella77 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
great stuff! thanks for sharing
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Phin
Prolific Poster



12906 Posts

Posted - 08/30/2012 :  09:30:30 AM  Show Profile Send Phin a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Let's see here.....




quote:
Originally posted by Phin

short term work plan:

sand bilge bulkhead
mask fwd bilge area off
flood coat bilge bulkhead vertical
sand bilge bulkhead and stringer base corners' flood coat
coat bilge with Interprotect2000e epoxy

sand fwd fish box transition area
apply more flood coat to fwd fish box transition area
sand fwd fish box transition area flood coat
coat fwd fish box newly glassed areas with 2000e epoxy
apply second coat of epoxy to bilge
apply second coat of epoxy to fwd box newly glassed areas
drill cockpit fishbox bulkhead vertical bottom corners for plumbing runs
glass in thin polycarbonate tubes (8ft long fluorescent light bulb protectors @ $5 each) as plumbing conduits for hose lines run under cockpit fish boxes
design fish box drain corners

complete fish box interior structure glassing
sand flood coated fish box outboard interior verticals
flood coat all of fish box interior
tab in cockpit fish box interiors and foam between interiors and hull/stringers
sand cockpit fish box interiors' flood coats
over drill thru-hull fittings' holes for cockpit fish box drains
bevel edges, backfill with putty, redrill for fittings
cut out new stringer core to fit around fuel lines conduit under helm area
glass fuel lines conduit stringer area and opposite stringer up to console interior back wall

glass underside of deck between forepeak hatches
glass several layers reinforcement on underside of deck where T top legs mount (methacrylated FRP panels instead)
clean fuel cell area/prep for fuel tank
install fuel tank and foam

drill fuel pick up and ground bond wire hole in rear bulkhead
add putty to hole then redrill smaller and bevel edges on both sides
glass mid-tank deck support beam
install beam and fillet putty and glass to stringers
trim down foam and glass from tank to stringers
install fuel lines
grind donated splash well
grind underside of console base
run conduit from aft console base area to anchor locker

methacrylate console base to old deck underside
fill console-deck joint with putty
glass console-deck joint
grind high spots during partial cure
flood coat console-deck joint while still tacky
build console interior floor (design, mold, glass, flood coat, sand)




apply third coat of epoxy to bilge
apply fourth coat of epoxy to bilge





so updated plans:

new plan is to add another layer of 2708 glass and maybe 1/4" divinycell core to new fwd fish box floor in fwd section (flat area that replaced V'ed area) so that jumping down onto it during boat cleaning will not hurt it (not happy with stiffness of the area currently)
flood coat and sand fwd fish box
complete cockpit fish boxes interior structure glassing
sand flood coated ckpt fish boxes outboard interior verticals
flood coat all of ckpt fish box interior
sand cockpit fish box interiors' flood coats
over drill thru-hull fittings' holes for cockpit fish box drains
bevel edges, backfill with putty, redrill for fittings
glass underside of deck between forepeak hatches
drill fuel pick up and ground bond wire hole in rear bulkhead
add putty to hole then redrill smaller and bevel edges on both sides
glass mid-tank deck support beam
install beam and fillet putty and glass to stringers
trim down foam and glass from tank to stringers
install fuel lines
methacrylate console base to old deck underside
fill console-deck joint with putty
glass console-deck joint
grind high spots during partial cure
flood coat console-deck joint while still tacky
build console interior floor (design, mold, glass, flood coat, sand)

....

gunnel cap repairs/recoring
fwd livewell installation
fwd seating recore/repair
deck dry fitting
deck underside glassing
deck methacrylating to stringers, bulkheads and old deck edges
deck joints filling/glassing
deck surface glassing
deck surface filling/fairing
hull-deck cap joint rivets removed and joint cleaned up
hull-cap joint methacrylating
etc.






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Edited by - Phin on 08/30/2012 09:45:24 AM
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Phin
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12906 Posts

Posted - 08/30/2012 :  4:18:04 PM  Show Profile Send Phin a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Mojo logo design:




Crescent moon will probably turn into a fish at some point, but this is a starting point.




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Edited by - Phin on 08/30/2012 4:19:03 PM
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Pluffdaddy
Senior Member



222 Posts

Posted - 08/31/2012 :  10:38:31 AM  Show Profile Send Pluffdaddy a Private Message  Reply with Quote
very cool.
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JMH
Senior Member



610 Posts

Posted - 08/31/2012 :  11:43:51 AM  Show Profile Send JMH a Private Message  Reply with Quote
i like the logo!
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ECU1984
Senior Member



386 Posts

Posted - 09/02/2012 :  12:35:37 AM  Show Profile Send ECU1984 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Starting to see it coming together for you now. I am looking forward to seeing finished product.

Rick
23 Center Console
Twin 140s
"Dirty Money"
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Phin
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12906 Posts

Posted - 09/04/2012 :  09:10:08 AM  Show Profile Send Phin a Private Message  Reply with Quote
deck support beam













fuel pickup and ground access











glassing fuel line access & tank edges






more putty











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saltydog235
Senior Member



9688 Posts

Posted - 09/04/2012 :  10:17:25 AM  Show Profile  Send saltydog235 a Yahoo! Message Send saltydog235 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Really starting to come together Wes. Keep at it.

Oh and thanks for the pics.

Mark
Pioneer 222 Sportfish Yamaha F300
Yeah, but do you consider a dog to be a filthy animal? I wouldn't go so far as to call a dog filthy but they're definitely dirty. But, a dog's got personality. Personality goes a long way.

"Life's tough......It's even tougher if you're stupid" John Wayne

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dreamin-on
Senior Member



207 Posts

Posted - 09/05/2012 :  11:56:33 AM  Show Profile Send dreamin-on a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Looking good
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Phin
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12906 Posts

Posted - 09/05/2012 :  12:32:07 PM  Show Profile Send Phin a Private Message  Reply with Quote





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Luke 8:22-25
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palmettotrooper
Intermediate Member



113 Posts

Posted - 09/06/2012 :  5:51:52 PM  Show Profile Send palmettotrooper a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Got busy with work and forgot to text you back. Come whenever you want to get the rest of your stuff. If we are not there, Ill leave you a key and drop cord
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Phin
Prolific Poster



12906 Posts

Posted - 09/06/2012 :  7:27:32 PM  Show Profile Send Phin a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by palmettotrooper

Got busy with work and forgot to text you back. Come whenever you want to get the rest of your stuff. If we are not there, Ill leave you a key and drop cord




I appreciate it as always! Thank you very much!

Oh and no problem at all- figured you were on the road.

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Redstripe
Senior Member



2989 Posts

Posted - 09/07/2012 :  10:17:21 PM  Show Profile Send Redstripe a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I wish I had 1/100th of that focus.
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Phin
Prolific Poster



12906 Posts

Posted - 09/10/2012 :  10:45:13 AM  Show Profile Send Phin a Private Message  Reply with Quote
the wasps do not like eminent domain, but I relocated a couple this weekend anyway

cut this stuff out of a scrap pile










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pescazorro
Senior Member



421 Posts

Posted - 09/24/2012 :  12:04:03 PM  Show Profile Send pescazorro a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Hey phin what gives man.....been jonesing for an update

"Endeavor to Persevere.
Give,Give.. Never Take."
EC
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