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 Anti-ventilation plate height
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MattR
Senior Member

607 Posts

Posted - 03/22/2012 :  6:32:08 PM  Show Profile Send MattR a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I am looking for an idea from someone on how I can get my motor up without using a jack plate. I am not against a jack plate, but if I get one, I want a hydraulic one and I don't want to spend that much. My cav plate is 2 inches below the bottom of the transom. I would like the added bottom clearance and help with porpoising.

My problem is my bottom bolts are too low. I have no room in the slot to go up. I can't drill holes and move them up because they are already sitting on the underside of the motorwell. I would have to cut out the supporting wood just to gain 1 inch when I need 2 or 3.










2000 McKee Scoundrel 160, Honda 75hp

Edited by - MattR on 03/22/2012 7:02:09 PM

hairball
Senior Member



1604 Posts

Posted - 03/22/2012 :  6:49:33 PM  Show Profile Send hairball a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I think you answered your own question on options. You can get a static set back plate instead of a jack plate for not much $$. Otherwise, save some money for a hyd. jack plate.

FYI, proper terminology is an anti-ventilation plate. It has nothing to do with cavitation.

Iain Pelto
Sea Hunt Triton 160 w/ 90 ETEC "JB3"
Native Manta Ray 14




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chris V
Senior Member



7060 Posts

Posted - 03/22/2012 :  6:55:33 PM  Show Profile  Visit chris V's Homepage Send chris V a Private Message  Reply with Quote
we sell a mechanical jack plate
$225

www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
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MattR
Senior Member



607 Posts

Posted - 03/22/2012 :  7:08:05 PM  Show Profile Send MattR a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by hairball

I think you answered your own question on options. You can get a static set back plate instead of a jack plate for not much $$. Otherwise, save some money for a hyd. jack plate.

FYI, proper terminology is an anti-ventilation plate. It has nothing to do with cavitation.

Iain Pelto
Sea Hunt Triton 160 w/ 90 ETEC "JB3"
Native Manta Ray 14








I actually knew that about the terminology. I had some brain fade. I was just happy I figured out how to do this post from my cell phone with pics.

I guess I have to put a hydraulic plate on my list. If I am going through the trouble of mounting a plate I want to be able to adjust on the fly.

2000 McKee Scoundrel 160, Honda 75hp
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dernflatlander
Senior Member



1257 Posts

Posted - 03/23/2012 :  7:42:11 PM  Show Profile Send dernflatlander a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Tell us more about that "supporting wood". It appears that the bolt holes are not drilled at BIA standards, therefore, when you try to install a jackplate the holes won't match and you'll be facing the same dilema. Why is there raw wood there?
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MattR
Senior Member



607 Posts

Posted - 03/23/2012 :  9:01:27 PM  Show Profile Send MattR a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by dernflatlander

Tell us more about that "supporting wood". It appears that the bolt holes are not drilled at BIA standards, therefore, when you try to install a jackplate the holes won't match and you'll be facing the same dilema. Why is there raw wood there?



That wood is under the bait wells/motor well. I do not like it there either and its on my list of things to re-do. I got this boat about 2 months ago. The bolt holes are not to standards and I have an email in to Bobs machine about that. I will have to drill new lower holes in a plate unless bobs can do it for me.

2000 McKee Scoundrel 160, Honda 75hp
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Cracker Larry
Senior Member



1548 Posts

Posted - 03/24/2012 :  07:43:49 AM  Show Profile Send Cracker Larry a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I would fill all the old holes and re-drill the transom to industry standards. Whoever drilled those holes didn't have a clue.

Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats

Edited by - Cracker Larry on 03/24/2012 07:44:50 AM
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MattR
Senior Member



607 Posts

Posted - 03/24/2012 :  12:07:30 PM  Show Profile Send MattR a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Cracker Larry

I would fill all the old holes and re-drill the transom to industry standards. Whoever drilled those holes didn't have a clue.

Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats



That will not work. If I move the holes up until the bottom holes are above the splash well, the top bolts will be within 1/2in of the top of the transom. The guys with smaller whalers have the same issue. Some of them use a lag bolt on the bottom holes which I am not going to do.

I believe I am going to get some 6061 3x1/2 bar stock and 316 countersink bolts to make an adapter to raise the motor. I think I am going to have problems with any jack plate because my bolt spacing is 9 1/2 not the 8in standard. Also, a jack plate may interfere with my livewell fittings since there is little clearance at the bottom bolts.

I hope all this effort will be worth it.

2000 McKee Scoundrel 160, Honda 75hp

Edited by - MattR on 03/24/2012 1:07:27 PM
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chris V
Senior Member



7060 Posts

Posted - 03/26/2012 :  7:30:42 PM  Show Profile  Visit chris V's Homepage Send chris V a Private Message  Reply with Quote
wouldnt it be easier to cut out a small curve of that wood and redrill to standard spacing, then just raise the motor with the standard mounting bolts?

www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
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MattR
Senior Member



607 Posts

Posted - 03/31/2012 :  6:45:05 PM  Show Profile Send MattR a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I think this is my best work around. It was difficult locating 1/2in 316 countersink bolts and a 7/8in 82* countersink bit. This is what I came up with for now



It raised the plate to be even with the bottom of the transom. I am excited to try it out and see what the 2 inches did to it.

2000 McKee Scoundrel 160, Honda 75hp
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chris V
Senior Member



7060 Posts

Posted - 04/01/2012 :  7:07:40 PM  Show Profile  Visit chris V's Homepage Send chris V a Private Message  Reply with Quote
excellent idea

www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
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MattR
Senior Member



607 Posts

Posted - 04/01/2012 :  10:21:21 PM  Show Profile Send MattR a Private Message  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by chris V

excellent idea

www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.joinrfa.org



Thank you. I gave it a good workout today and it held up great. The av plate is still submerged at speed. It did not add to the top end at all. Still 37mph at 5400. I can hold plane at 16mph now which is 3 mph slower than before. It seems to get on plane a good bit quicker too. It was not as good as what I was expecting. I think a jack plate may be added in the near future and possibly a new prop.

2000 McKee Scoundrel 160, Honda 75hp
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Loosewire
Senior Member



1495 Posts

Posted - 04/02/2012 :  09:53:46 AM  Show Profile Send Loosewire a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Get one and raise it a little more. I gained 7-8 mph on my top end by adding a manual jack plate and installing the correct SS prop on my Suzuki 140 which is mounted on a 21' Tidewater Bay Max. The boat was a pig when I sea-trialed it, but I knew what the problem was as soon as it got on plane. The plate was a good 2" below the bottom of the boat and moving it up on the transom to the lowest mounting bracket holes would not have been enough. With the 4" set-back of the jack plate and trimming the motor, I'm now running ~2" higher than the bottom of the boat.

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