Prop Question


Would this bent/scuffed stainless steel prop be better than a brand new aluminum prop?

This is off a '95 25 hp mariner, would it fit a 2020 25 hp yamaha?

Thanks

Replies

If it were me I'd take that stainless one off and take it to a prop shop.

Hard to tell from the pics, but how bad it's dinged and bent makes a huge difference as that vibration goes thru the entire motor (whole boat actually) and does real damage to bearings along the way.

As far as fitting both shafts ask the guys at the prop shop

Last edited by HEAD ADMINISTRATOR--Edisto Fisher
What prop shop do you recommend? I have an aluminum Yamaha prop that needs work.

If it were me I'd take that stainless one off and take it to a prop shop.

Hard to tell from the pics, but how bad it's dinged and bent makes a huge difference as that vibration goes thru the entire motor (whole boat actually) and does real damage to bearings along the way.

As far as fitting both shafts ask the guys at the prop shop

Originally posted by HEAD ADMINISTRATOR--Edisto Fisher


So a brand new aluminum would be better? I already have both.
Yes, a brand new aluminum prop would be better.
What prop shop do you recommend? I have an aluminum Yamaha prop that needs work.

Originally posted by FlickerFisher



I've heard good things about Skips over they years, but have never used him myself.

From what I can see on the pic file / sand out the ruff spots and let it roll. If you do get a new prop that 25 won’t benefit from a stainless save the money and get an aluminum one unless you plan on churning over a lot of rough bottom.

You need at least 40-60 + hp to gain the added benefit of little blade flex on a stainless over an aluminum ..loosing pitch at higher rpms.
From what I can see on the pic file / sand out the ruff spots and let it roll. If you do get a new prop that 25 won’t benefit from a stainless save the money and get an aluminum one unless you plan on churning over a lot of rough bottom.

You need at least 40-60 + hp to gain the added benefit of little blade flex on a stainless over an aluminum ..loosing pitch at higher rpms. Originally posted by Fred67


Thanks, sounds like I should just use the new aluminum one that comes with the motor.
From what I can see on the pic file / sand out the ruff spots and let it roll. If you do get a new prop that 25 won’t benefit from a stainless save the money and get an aluminum one unless you plan on churning over a lot of rough bottom.

You need at least 40-60 + hp to gain the added benefit of little blade flex on a stainless over an aluminum ..loosing pitch at higher rpms. Originally posted by Fred67


Thanks, sounds like I should just use the new aluminum one that comes with the motor. Originally posted by in the grass



I always use aluminum props on boats that I use in shallow water. I once got a chunk of brick lodge between a prop blade and the anti-ventilation plate. Stopped the motor instantly. Even though I was at idle speed, it took a big chunk out of the prop blade. Didn't even get through the paint on the underside of AV plate. I'm sure the aluminum in the prop tearing away saved the rest of the motor from a worse shock/stress.

On a small boat, you're not going to see any practical diff in performance.


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17' Henry O Hornet w/ Johnson 88 spl
26' Palmer Scott project hull
14' Bentz-Craft w/ Yamaha 25
That’s why we have the press in rubber hubs to absorb that sort of shock load Palmer. smile. Used to be shear pins that where a pita, probably not many remember those. ?