Anchoring offshore


Have located some pretty productive bottom numbers in 90-100ft towards Edisto Banks, but have never anchored, always drift. Conventional wisdom seems to hold for bigger/better fish such as keeper grouper, anchoring is more productive. Reckon it's time to mature a bit and try anchoring. Running a Lewmar windlass with 600ft rode - anything on the bottom in that area and depth on which I might lose my anchor?

Obviously you don't know the exact loc., but in general is the bottom out in the gen area hazardous to anchoring?
Last edited by ducowti
Replies

You could always rig for a "break-a-way" setup and use one of those anchor balls for retrieval.


"Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It's Hand", but really, who cares?
Not sure your boat size or how much you are willing to spend but IMO an electric motor "spot Lock" is the ultimate in modern "anchoring". I was skeptical but in strong current with little chop it can keep a Key West 239 still. I hate pulling an anchor and even more trying to get perfect over a spot for straight down fishing were a few yards off can mean a full cooler or nothing. With one you can creep all around and watch your sonar and when on spot, hit the anchor function.


https://anchor.travel/trolling-motors-with-spot-lock/
Not sure your boat size or how much you are willing to spend but IMO an electric motor "spot Lock" is the ultimate in modern "anchoring". I was skeptical but in strong current with little chop it can keep a Key West 239 still. I hate pulling an anchor and even more trying to get perfect over a spot for straight down fishing were a few yards off can mean a full cooler or nothing. With one you can creep all around and watch your sonar and when on spot, hit the anchor function.

Hey Fred and Dfreedom.

GREAT ADVICE on both counts from you guys.

Do a SEARCH on here for break away anchors IF you are lucky enough to get a search done.

Answer to your question about hang ups is YES, if you are in the structure, BUT if you are good enough at following your compass line, you can anchor away from the structure and drift back to your spot and lock down the rode to bow cleat.

In my opinion, especially as a beginner, you should try the anchor and drift back method first, because if you attempt to drop anchor when you are OVER the fish, you will drift off the fish anyway.

Find the fish, then go UP CURRENT to CLEAN bottom, drop anchor and drift until you find GOOD spot, and tie down as stated before.

Good luck, as always, experience is best teacher.




https://anchor.travel/trolling-motors-with-spot-lock/Originally posted by Fred67
Anchoring at that depth is more work than fun, in my opinion, and burns a lot of time. I would rather drift or try to control position using engines, depending on conditions.

The new joysticks have the ability to maintain a position and a direction of drift. That is one of the reasons, among many, that I have ordered a new boat. Explored retrofitting but, as I understood it, spendy to convert.

Not a ton of personal experience with the electric motor approach but I have used inshore and in freshwater and loved it. I have watched others use this effectively to stay on location offshore many times. Seems like a good solution if it works with the boat.
Appreciate the replies gents. It's just shy of 28ft, and the idea of a trolling motor with like a (**() 7ft shaft on my bow doesn't excite me, though I recognize spot lock/ipilot would be nice. Don't have the scratch to implement the stick either. Will give anchoring a whirl...
I just put a trolling motor on and love it, but that’s not what you are asking about.
I have 400 hours on my boat with a lot fishing in 90 ft of water. There’s a good reason that there’s fish at 90 ft. Same reason that can be hard on an anchor in 90 ft. Fishing structure and rocks comes with a cost. The windless will be much nicer than pulling anchor by hand but realize that anchor can get hung out there.
I used aluminum lewmar and fortress and got about 100 boat hours till I had them so bent up that they had to have flukes replaced.

Good luck with it.


bcr
16lb mighty mite reef anchor
30' of 3/8 galvanized chain

If the anchor gets stuck, tie off to a cleat and drive it out. Get the bent anchor back in the boat and bend back to shape. Don't risk your high dollar anchors.

Sellsfish did a great video a while back on offshore anchoring, but I can't find it. This is the anchor style you want.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLQrq9fZlwk





"Another poon dream splintered on the rocks of reality." --Peepod 07-25-2017
Save yourself some pain, and go the professional route......

12H high tensile Danforth anchor, 20ft galvanized chain, anchor retrieval system. Anything else thrown out in this thread is junk!

Go look at any commercial grouper/snapper boat and you'll see what I'm talking about, better yet, go fish nearby said vessel, and you'll see how easy it is to drag your anchor from spot to spot. Pulling an anchor by hand, should only used for a mushroom anchor on a canoe.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdmF-IYhbBo
16lb mighty mite reef anchor
30' of 3/8 galvanized chain

If the anchor gets stuck, tie off to a cleat and drive it out. Get the bent anchor back in the boat and bend back to shape. Don't risk your high dollar anchors.

Sellsfish did a great video a while back on offshore anchoring, but I can't find it. This is the anchor style you want.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLQrq9fZlwk





"Another poon dream splintered on the rocks of reality." --Peepod 07-25-2017Originally posted by 23Sailfish


Ricky, I found the one from Sellsfish. Searched on Youtube, as this sites well, useless for that...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwiNDQW_r08

NN
Last edited by DoubleN
Here is my great wisdom.
Okay don't laugh. He mentioned he has a windless I've never had to Fortune to have a boat with one that worked. I have always use the ball. But as far as anchoring in deep water no big deal. You're not going to want to anchor on the structure if you find it anyway. A danforth anchor can be rigged with a heavy duty zip tie that will break away if needed at the top of the anchor. Then hook your chain to the bottom if you get hung snatch on it a couple times the zip tie breaks and the anchor pulls out backwards. There's videos out there. I have always found the best grouper fishing is on ledges other than structure. Everyone knows where the artificial reefs and stuff like that are so they get a lot of pressure. I always carry a second anchor just in case of an emergency. I do use a reef anchor and shallow or water when I'm around a lot of structure.

About 20 years ago I was fishing at the Sherman out of Little River 60 ft of water. My anchor got hung and we end up cutting the rope. About 2 months later. I'm back to the same spot jigging bait. Put the motors in gear and went to haul a$$ and there was a hell of a racket and the boat snatched real hard. One of my motors snagged a rope. Got it unwrapped it turned out to be my anchor. Went to the Georgetown hole from there. On the way back home that night the lower unit went ..
We're still out about 30 miles and the boat would not plane with just one motor.


I am fragile.
Not like a flower.
But like a bomb.

22 life's a day
Last edited by Off the chain